Sunday, December 18, 2011

DIY Scotty backing plates and install video



The video explains the whole process, but in classic PKF style, I supplied the part numbers and the retailers that sell the components used in this build.  I built four of these round plates and the unit cost per disk comes out to be around a $1.30 each.  With that being said, I did order my nuts and bolts in bulk so the breakdown was .18 cents per SS flange nut and .21 cents per SS pan head bolt after shipping.  You can probably find these SS flange nuts at a more specialized hardware store to avoid ordering in bulk.

I was not able to find the 10-24 size of stainless steel flange nuts locally at any of the "big box" hardware stores so I ordered them through McMaster-Carr.  They sell all kinds of bolts, screws, nuts, spring steel - you name it, they probably have it.  Every time I have ordered anything from them, my package arrives on my doorstep the next day.   

If you order online, shipping costs will not be calculated before you checkout.  Just call them before ordering and they can give you a general idea of what will be charged to your credit card for shipping.  My shipping costs have always been around $5 which is downright amazing considering the low retail prices and turnaround speed.

And just in case you were curious, I recently fabricated and installed rectangular backing plates for Scotty 244 flush mounts on a different kayak using the same method with equal success. 

Fabricated Disk Parts:

8.5" x 11' Poly Cutting Board - $2.16, Walmart (Product page LINK)

Part Number 93776A391 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut, 10-24 thread size, 3/8" Width, 7/32 overall height,  PACK OF 50 pieces - $6.55, McMaster-Carr (Product page LINK)

Other Parts:

Part Number 91772A249 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, 10-24 Thread, 1-1/4" Length, PACK OF 50 pieces - $7.92, McMaster-Carr (Product page LINK)

Scotty 344 Round Flush Deck Mount Brackets - $9.99, Austin Kayak (Product page LINK)

Plumbers Goop  - $4.57, Home Depot (Product page LINK)


Side note:
  The install procedure will probably also work with non-flush Scotty mounts where no large center hole will be drilled into the kayak.  In this case, only the four mounting holes for the bolts will be drilled.  To bypass this issue, attach a length of spring steel, bailing wire or something similar to both of the tag ends of the line with tape.   Anything that has some weight to it (preferably magnetic) that can be taped to the line and will still pass through the mounting holes should work fine.  Each end should look similar to a threaded needle, only the line is taped into place instead of passing through an eye hole.  In the same manner as displayed in the video, pass the spring steel "needle" through the drilled bolt holes in the kayak deck.  Only this time, just let the spring steel fall into the hull of the kayak.  Attach a strong magnet to the end of a length of PVC and slide it through an open hatch toward the lines.  The magnet will "grab" the spring steel and the lines can be fed through the kayak.  Alternatively, use a piece of PVC with a hook attached to it to grab the ends of the string.  The rest of the install process is the same.

6 comments:

  1. Keep the great DIY projects coming......as always great info and great explanation on the install as well as where to get everything used!!!!

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  2. Great article brother! I used and older post of yours that eluded to using cutting board and toilet bolts for slide trax accessories and it worked like a charm. I have planned on up grading with tapped insterts and wing nuts like you did, but it is working fine, so I just bumped that project back. I am glad you decided to make a full tutorial on it. DIY kayak projects is such a unique topic, great blog!

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  3. Thanks! The toilet bolts for slide trax work great too and the setup is easy. Glad you enjoy the blog and I checked yours out as well - very nice man!

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